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😍 5/5 - The concept of Next Restaurant is constant evolution.
By 👻 @David K., 06/10/2022 3:00 am
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Every few months, the restaurant changes its entire menu and decor to a new theme, so each iteration is a temporary production. On my visit, the theme of Next was the World's Fair, and each course was inspired by some aspect of Chicago's 1893 Colombian Exposition, or of some other iteration of the World's Fair held in another time and place. Here were a few highlights from the tasting menu:1. Several iconic foods were showcased at the Chicago World's Fair, and the next three bites used these items as ingredients. There were crab cakes covered in Pabst Blue Ribbon beer batter (served on a crushed beer can), Vienna sausages wrapped in Japanese milk bread, and waffle cone tarts topped with pork belly and Cracker Jack's crumbles for a sweet and salty crunch (served on a box of Cracker Jack's). 2. London's 1851 World's Fair featured the opulent Crystal Palace, and there's nothing more posh than tea and biscuits. The "English High Tea" course came with a "tea" of chicken consommé served in a teacup with a dissolvable teabag containing mirepoix and "sugar cubes" made of chicken fat. On the side came rosemary biscuits topped with an unctuous foie gras mousse topped with an acidic verjus/cognac jelly (with an elaborate key-shaped design) dusted with gold. 3. At Chicago's second World's Fair in 1933, cod liver oil (and other fish oils) were touted as the healthiest fats. The "Take Your Medicine" fish course came with a medallion of sturgeon served over brandade (a cod and potato puree), topped with a crispy brioche wheel, and drizzled with a clarified herb fish butter.4. At the Chicago World's Fair, the Danish expo featured a display on Mary & Her Little Lamb. The "Lammekod Smorrebrod" course was an open-faced sandwich made with a layer of lamb loin, topped with shredded lamb, topped with a layer of pumpernickel dressed with raspberry sauce, surrounded with dried lamb "chips," served with a pool of goat cheese pudding on the side. One of the technologies displayed at the fair was the zipper, and the server also brought over and unzipped a wool pillowcase, which contained a bucket with lavender aroma (the national flower of Denmark).5. My favorite course from the meal was inspired by the 1965 World's Fair in Flushing, NY, after which many immigrants moved to the area from China and Southeast Asia. The "Imperial Palace Pavilion" dish came with a piece of tender, fatty Wagyu short rib along with six different colorful accompaniments on the plate: grilled zucchini/yellow squash, a black garlic puree, a yuzu pinwheel, an onion puree with scallion, a spicy red chili chutney, and a jam made from braised purple Asian potato. On the side came an Asian steamed bun sitting on a savory beef sauce. All of the components of this dish had an intense flavor profile, but my favorite components were the Wagyu shortrib and the steamed bun with the umami beef sauce. I only wish I had some rice to go with everything!6. Dessert was inspired by the "high striker" game found at many fairs and carnivals. Each diner received a tiny mallet and a bowl containing a puck of milk chocolate ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen. The mallet was used to break the puck into little shards, and underneath was creamy mascarpone cheese surrounding a center of strawberries and chocolate. The liquid nitrogen ice cream was an amazing dessert, as it simply melted in your mouth to the perfect creamy consistency, and this was complemented by the milky creaminess of the mascarpone cheese!7. To finish off the meal, the waiter brought over a replica ferris wheel with four little dessert bites inspired by foods offered at the fair: a toffee apple topped with a peanut-laced cookie; a strawberry-rhubarb icee; a funnel cake topped with fennel; and a guava marshmallow "chewing gum."Overall, the World's Fair-themed meal at Next made for an unforgettable experience. Many of the courses used many of the same ingredients and preparation methods as dishes that would be found on a more traditional tasting menu, but each course also came with a story and inspiration that made it so much more memorable! As at other restaurants in the Alinea Group, the service here was super friendly and impeccable, and the concept of the restaurant was truly one-of-a-kind.
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