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🤢 2/5 - Like so many San Franciscans Trader Vic's was my family's
By 👻 @Archie G., 11/25/2007 3:00 am
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Like so many San Franciscans Trader Vic's was my family's favorite restaurant. I went there from childhood to adulthood almost weekly. The staff was like a second family. The food was always first rate and custom orders were always accommodated. Then the fabled restaurant on Cosmo Alley closed. The place was empty for many years until it reopened as a themed Vietnamese restaurant. But news reached me that Trader Vic's reopened in San Francisco in the old Stars location. Stars was amazing in its prime--a Trader Vic's of its time. So it seemed fitting to see Trader Vic's reintroduced there. The place is beautiful (a wall of real orchids) and the furniture, though different in a more tailored way, evocative of the colonial era. Dunno if Lun Chan, architect of so many Trader Vic's around the world, had a hand in this place though. I hope so.In the new place all the staff looked so young compared to the smiling old faces I remember. This time the very attractive hostess appeared reluctant to seat us though we had reservations and the place was nearly empty. Then she was demonstrably put out when we asked for a table where we could plug in a laptop. Another attractive hostess compensated by being especially nice when she inquired about our cocktails--which were very good. An elected official at another table, the only other that was occupied, waved and yelled "Hello". Perhaps Trader Vic's really had returned to San Francisco.The menu retained some old favorites such as Bongo Bongo soup, Crab Rangoon, and meats from the Chinese Oven. But the menu's "moderate" prices should have warned me that something was amiss. Trader Vic's was a very expensive restaurant in its time, but its regular customers preferred Vic's raising prices to lowering standards. Today it might have to charge twice as much as its menu's prices to keep up. A salad described as crab (and with no other ingredients listed) was mostly shrimp and resembled an upside down mold instead of an array of seafood over a fan of greens--the way Trader Vic's used to do it. The Bongo Bongo soup resembled the original and is served in a goofy giant clamshell (I don't recall that from before), but was not hot and not flavorful. Other dishes were lackluster so there's no need to go on. This food does not showcase the fine ingredients simply cooked that, along with personalized service, were a hallmark of Trader Vic's. The "new' Trader Vic's looks to be an entertaining stop for drinks on the way to or from another restaurant or a show. And to a new generation of diners who were not raised on the old Trader Vic's this might fit the bill. There's a semblance of the old, the place is very pretty, its staff is trendy and today's customers might not support a return to the original's cost-no-object offerings. Puts me in mind of the big difference between the current Abercrombie & Fitch and the grand old sports shop that I enjoyed browsing through more than a generation ago.
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